Saturday, May 14, 2011

Of me and budu


Image credit here.



Me and budu, we’ve come a long way. Way back when I was in primary school, living with both my grandfather Bak [now arwah] and step-grandmother Tok Pi, of whose name comes from the abbreviation of her name, Rafiah. She now lives in Pekan, Pahang but that’s another story.

Now to get this story started, I’d like to make one thing clear. I don’t eat budu. Call me nebbeng or do’oh lalu but I could never, intentionally, take the budu bottle and sprinkle a few dashes on my piping hot rice, or pour a few spoonfuls of budu in a mangkok and mix with lada jarung [bird’s eye chillies] which are khennyet [crushed] and sprinkled with some lime juices.

When I was in primary school, I once went home and found myself surrounded by budu smell. Strong, foul smell of pickled anchovies that now filled the whole area of my home. Now home at this time was my Bak’s house, situated a few meters away from the famous Terengganu poet’s house, J.M. Aziz. The home was a place where I grew up as a child, tough child I would say as my mother worked as a tailor at shop rows in Steseng Bah Kuala Terengganu from 7am to 7pm, when the Bah Meroh would pull over at the street in Kampung Baru, sending home the kampong people who worked in bbando [town].

By now I almost died. I can’t eat budu, worst still I can’t even stand the smell. I hurriedly climbed the stairs, changed my school uniform as fast as I can, and avoided at all cost to go to the kitchen, where it smelled the worst. I ran to my aunt’s house, Mok Ting, and told her of the budu smell. She told me that now that my Bak has closed his small grocery shop by the main road in Kampong Baru, they [my grandfather and step-grandmother] have decided to take the job of filling the budu into small bottles and later selling them.


I figured it didn’t pay much, but as my Bak was not someone who would just lazy around all day long, he needed to do something. Anyways, it was not a day-job. They only need to fill the budu into the bottles – the size of coca-cola glass bottles – about twice a month. So for the next few years of my life, well into my secondary school years, I would have to come face to face with the smell of one delicacy that I loathe wholeheartedly. So much for a budu seller’s granddaughter.

It’s not the taste that makes me steer away from budu, but it was the smell. I’m not sure how budu is made, but I’m pretty sure that the combination of all the ingredients makes it addictive. I mean, one of my nieces would not eat anything without budu, as I once saw her poured budu into a bowl of mi rebus [yellow noodle with black pepper-infused broth]!

To smell budu, of which to other people is as tantalizing as the taste of budu itself, is so foul to me, and everyone in the family knows how much I loathe the smell that whenever we gathered at the dining table, no one dared to put the mangkok budu in front of me. They would put it far away from me, and I would endure the smell of the budu while everyone dips their ikang kembung panggang or goreng [grilled or friend mackerel] in the budu mix.

I am the only one in the family, or probably the whole Kampong Baru Seberang Takir who do not eat budu, I think. However, I do believe that somehow, I must have accidentally taken budu in several occurrences in my life, especially when my mom cooked Bubur Lambuk or Sayur Labu, a dish made with labu air or bottle gourd cooked in simple watery black pepper broth, mixed with shredded pieces of ikang selayang.


I remember once while eating the sayur labu, I told my mother sternly to not to put any budu in my dishes. Proud as I sounded, I am the youngest daughter in the family and being the closest to mother, of course she would listen to me – or so I thought. And I was saying this while having the sayur labu with hot rice, ikang kembung goreng [fried mackerel seasoned with blended red chilli paste, salt and turmeric powder] and sambal belacan, or belacang as we Terengganu people call it. My eldest sister Kak Long was there, and she was about to say something when I noticed my mother nudged her. I think she was about to say “But there was budu in the sayur labu!”.

Later, I think a few years later, I managed to confirm my curiosity when one day I asked my mother how to cook sayur labu, and as she was telling me the ingredients, she slipped the word “budu”, and I went “Doh selame ni massok sayur labu mok memang letok budu ah?” ["So all this while you've been adding budu into the bottle gourd dish?] to which she replied, “Ho lah, dok letok budu dok jjadi sayur labu lah. Bubur lambuk ggitu gok. Kalu dok letok budu, dok rase lah ikang dalang bubur tu” ["Of course. If there is no budu in the dish, then it will not be called as the bottle gourd dish. So does bubur lambuk. If there is no budu in the bubur lambuk, then the fishy taste will not be that good].

Duped for life, that’s how my history with budu is.

Like I said in the beginning, me and budu, we’ve come a long way. No matter how much I try to avoid eating budu, it will always linger silently in the background, waiting for the right moment to jump into the dishes that I eat.

Monday, May 9, 2011

When The Sky Is Different Blue

The first view of the sky that I enjoy every morning, right in front of my house

When I was a young girl, I used to go to the beach when the sun was right up on my head - yep, my rendezvous with the beach in Kampung Telaga Daing started after Zuhur and ended at Asar. Why after Zuhur? The answer is - at 1pm, the beach was scorching hot, so no one was at the beach, perfect for me. I would sit under one of the makeshift tents/teduhan [I'll verify the name of that thing with my mom later] which were made of four bamboo poles, thrust into the sand as far as the fisherman's hand can in the shape of a square, and on top of the poles, coconut leaves - few branches of them - were neatly tied to the pole with tali ropia, colorful strings made with very very thin plastic. And the floor of the makeshift tent? Nothing but sands.

The sky in Merchang, on my way back from Dungun to KT

Pantai Tok Jembal, taken during my niece's wedding photo shoot.

Dataran Pulau Kambing at Maghrib. I had Ramadhan Iftar on one of the many benches here.

I remember the beach at that time as a place to clear my thoughts. Growing up with a single parent was never easy, and often I escaped to the beach. I didn't do much. I didn't play with the sand, I didn't take a dip in the saltwater; all I did was to look up to the sky, and nothing else. Of course the calming sound of the wave was there - it was like a background music to my sky-admiring activity.

Even though things have changed with the land, the sky remains faithfully blue as ever

The sky in Pantai Teluk Ketapang, in one of its many calm afternoons, where you will see
various shapes of kites flown by the kids [or sometimes, adult!]


I remember vividly, how the blue sky accompanied the ever-changing clouds chased by the wind, how the color was blue, so blue that it was indescribable with my limited vocabulary at that time [I found out later that we use the word "azure" to describe the blue sky, which I don't agree because how can you describe the color with just one word?]. Anyways, I just sat there, cloud-watching till I heard Asar azan, or call of prayer from the nearby Surau Kampung Telaga Daing. Then I would leave the beach, feeling a lot lighter and calmer.

Sometimes, the sky turns nasty, between July - January
[picture taken at Jambatan Sultan Mahmud]

But I see some kites flying so obviously we're not scared of it.


Stock your food, fix your leaking roof. Monsoon is here everyone.

My fascination with the sky in Terengganu doesn't stop there. When I did my diploma in KUSZA, I told my friend something that she laughed about. It's probably because of the way I said it. I told her "Do you know why I love Terengganu? It's the sky. Even the sky is different blue in Terengganu". For an 18-year-old, you don't say that to your girl friend, or you risk being labeled "melancholic". I didn't care. Later when she finished her diploma and left Terengganu, I think she agrees with me. Nobody knows.

Teluk Ketapang

The serene, untouched beach at Kampung Mengabang Telipot. Right in front of these trees is my mother's cousin's kedai borong, Kedai Haji Karim. Cheapest in town!

The secret love affair was further justified when I bought a digital camera. Finally I have a tool to capture all those lovely skies. It is just a small Nikon camera, priced under RM1000, but it was enough to state my love for the blue sky. I started capturing photos of the sky every time I went out to the beach. Now I can remember how it looks like. When I am old and not able to go to the beach anymore, I can look at the photos and instantly, the sounds of the waves that accompany me when I was admiring the sky returns. I can almost feel the burning sun on my tanned skin every time I thought of the sky.


Pantai Teluk Ketapang at dusk

I think it's the color of the sea. I think that's what makes Terengganu sky very different from other states. I've lived in Tanjong Malim for four years when I did my first degree, and I have never seen the sky as blue as the ones in Terengganu. I used to sit at the window of my hostel room, and wonder why don't they have blue sky, because that's what I do when I'm stressed. Oh well, jogging in the unpaved road surrounded by palm trees wasn't such a bad idea to unwind.


Now everyone knows how much I love Pantai Teluk Ketapang

Whatever makes the sky blue, I am thankful that it is still as blue as it was years ago. No matter what was done to the sand below the sky, it stays the same. So I was not kidding when I said this once and I would say it again, "Even the sky is different blue in Terengganu".

One of the many boats docked at Marina Bay Resort, Pulau Duyung

The inspiration of writing this blog posts about Terengganu comes from Wan Hulaimi, who up to this time had written two books under his pseudonym Awang Goneng. He wrote about the past, when Terengganu was Trengganu, way way back when things were much more serene and no doubt, simple. I am writing about the past too, and some present as I think it would be wasteful to not to capture the memory of living in Terengganu as it is now.

*All photos are writer's own. Please credit accordingly if you would like to use them. Thank you.